Gallery of Project Photos: Difference between revisions

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<gallery mode="slideshow" widths=250px showthumbnails caption="Ambry Project in Process">
<gallery mode="slideshow" widths=250px showthumbnails perrow=3 caption="Ambry Project in Process">
File:Bead Profile.jpg|Close up of the bead profile. The profile is ¾" wide and initially defined by 2 groves 1/16" in width and 3/16" deep. Then the bead itself is formed with a block plane and a hollow plane to give the rounded over profile.
File:Bead Profile.jpg|Close up of the bead profile. The profile is ¾" wide and initially defined by 2 groves 1/16" in width and 3/16" deep. Then the bead itself is formed with a block plane and a hollow plane to give the rounded over profile.
File:Carcass Back Front.jpg|Front view of carcass with back attached
File:Carcass Back Front.jpg|Front view of carcass with back attached
File:Carcass Back.jpg|Back view of carcass with back attached. The backboards are ½" thick yellow pine boards with ½" rabbets on alternating edges and installed with ¼" overlap. This will keep any gaps from appearing if the wood shrinks and still have room if they expand without busting apart the carcass.
File:Carcass Back.jpg|Back view of carcass with back attached. The backboards are ½" thick yellow pine boards with ½" rabbets on alternating edges and installed with ¼" overlap. This will keep any gaps from appearing if the wood shrinks and still have room if they expand without busting apart the carcass.
File:Carcass No Back.jpg|Rear view of carcass before the back was attached. Note that the shelves are inset ½" to leave room for the backboards. That keeps them from showing from the side.
File:Carcass No Back.jpg|Rear view of carcass before the back was attached. Note that the shelves are inset ½" to leave room for the backboards. That keeps them from showing from the side.
File:Chisels and Rasps.jpg|A selection of my chisels and rasps for this project. Most work was done with the 12mm single bevel straight chisel.
File:Chisels and Rasps.jpg|A selection of my chisels and rasps for this project. Most of the work was done with the 1/12e (Pfiel 12mm single bevel straight chisel). Some of the corner elements were set in with the 3/20 and 3/25 shallow gouges. Some cleanup was done with the knife and the 2/8 (8mm very shallow gouge). As soon as the cutting resistance started climbing, it was time to strop the chisel using the black block (about every 5-10 min of carving).  
File:Complete Back.jpg|Back view of the (almost) completed project
File:Complete Back.jpg|Back view of the (almost) completed project
File:Complete Front.jpg|Front view of the (almost) completed project
File:Complete Front.jpg|Front view of the (almost) completed project
File:Complete Side.jpg|Side view of the (almost) completed project
File:Complete Side.jpg|Side view of the (almost) completed project
File:Complete Top 2.jpg|Top view of the (almost) completed project
File:Complete Top 2.jpg|Top view of the (almost) completed project
File:Door in Progress.jpg|The last part, the door.
File:Door in Progress.jpg|Carving the door. This was the final panel and went much more quickly than the others. Also shown here the hand-forged hinges that will attach the door to the main carcass.
File:Face Frame Mortised.jpg|The blank face frame mortised together and ready for detail work.
File:Face Frame Mortised.jpg|The blank face frame mortised together and ready for detail work.
File:Hammer and Nails.jpg|Rosehead cut nails as I used in the project and a hand-forged hammer to drive them home.
File:Hammer and Nails.jpg|Some of the (Tremont Nail Co.) 8''d''Rosehead cut nails as I used in the project and the hand-forged hammer I used to drive them home.
File:Hollow Plane 2.jpg|The hollow plane I used to form the bead molding.
File:Hollow Plane 2.jpg|The hollow plane I used to form the bead molding.
File:Rasping.jpg|Cleaning up the saw cuts with a rasp. Working vertically with a 2-handed grip helped a lot.
File:Rasping.jpg|Cleaning up the saw cuts with a rasp. Working vertically with a 2-handed grip helped a lot.
File:Router Plane.jpg|I used this router plane setup to plow the groves that form the basis of the bead molding.
File:Router Plane.jpg|I used this router plane setup to plow the grooves that form the basis of the bead molding.
</gallery>
</gallery>


Latest revision as of 16:50, 17 December 2020

  • Ambry Project in Process
  • Close up of the bead profile. The profile is ¾" wide and initially defined by 2 groves 1/16" in width and 3/16" deep. Then the bead itself is formed with a block plane and a hollow plane to give the rounded over profile.

    Close up of the bead profile. The profile is ¾" wide and initially defined by 2 groves 1/16" in width and 3/16" deep. Then the bead itself is formed with a block plane and a hollow plane to give the rounded over profile.

  • Front view of carcass with back attached

    Front view of carcass with back attached

  • Back view of carcass with back attached. The backboards are ½" thick yellow pine boards with ½" rabbets on alternating edges and installed with ¼" overlap. This will keep any gaps from appearing if the wood shrinks and still have room if they expand without busting apart the carcass.

    Back view of carcass with back attached. The backboards are ½" thick yellow pine boards with ½" rabbets on alternating edges and installed with ¼" overlap. This will keep any gaps from appearing if the wood shrinks and still have room if they expand without busting apart the carcass.

  • Rear view of carcass before the back was attached. Note that the shelves are inset ½" to leave room for the backboards. That keeps them from showing from the side.

    Rear view of carcass before the back was attached. Note that the shelves are inset ½" to leave room for the backboards. That keeps them from showing from the side.

  • A selection of my chisels and rasps for this project. Most of the work was done with the 1/12e (Pfiel 12mm single bevel straight chisel). Some of the corner elements were set in with the 3/20 and 3/25 shallow gouges. Some cleanup was done with the knife and the 2/8 (8mm very shallow gouge). As soon as the cutting resistance started climbing, it was time to strop the chisel using the black block (about every 5-10 min of carving).

    A selection of my chisels and rasps for this project. Most of the work was done with the 1/12e (Pfiel 12mm single bevel straight chisel). Some of the corner elements were set in with the 3/20 and 3/25 shallow gouges. Some cleanup was done with the knife and the 2/8 (8mm very shallow gouge). As soon as the cutting resistance started climbing, it was time to strop the chisel using the black block (about every 5-10 min of carving).

  • Back view of the (almost) completed project

    Back view of the (almost) completed project

  • Front view of the (almost) completed project

    Front view of the (almost) completed project

  • Side view of the (almost) completed project

    Side view of the (almost) completed project

  • Top view of the (almost) completed project

    Top view of the (almost) completed project

  • Carving the door. This was the final panel and went much more quickly than the others. Also shown here the hand-forged hinges that will attach the door to the main carcass.

    Carving the door. This was the final panel and went much more quickly than the others. Also shown here the hand-forged hinges that will attach the door to the main carcass.

  • The blank face frame mortised together and ready for detail work.

    The blank face frame mortised together and ready for detail work.

  • Some of the (Tremont Nail Co.) 8dRosehead cut nails as I used in the project and the hand-forged hammer I used to drive them home.

    Some of the (Tremont Nail Co.) 8dRosehead cut nails as I used in the project and the hand-forged hammer I used to drive them home.

  • The hollow plane I used to form the bead molding.

    The hollow plane I used to form the bead molding.

  • Cleaning up the saw cuts with a rasp. Working vertically with a 2-handed grip helped a lot.

    Cleaning up the saw cuts with a rasp. Working vertically with a 2-handed grip helped a lot.

  • I used this router plane setup to plow the grooves that form the basis of the bead molding.

    I used this router plane setup to plow the grooves that form the basis of the bead molding.

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