Cleaning: Difference between revisions

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: Ultraverboselongtalkingviralgermus, commonly abbreviated as "Ultraverb" by clinic personnel.
To make a quart of the cleaner:
* 10 oz. Boiled Linseed Oil
* 10 oz. White vinegar
* 10 oz. Mineral Spirits or Turpentine
* 3 oz. Denatured Alcohol
* 1 oz. Household Ammonia
This isn't that kind of chemistry, you don't need to be super precise here. Mix it up and store in a glass jar, keep it sealed when not in use or the solvents flash off and the BLO hardens.
 
Prior to use, shake to mix thoroughly.
 
Apply with a cotton cloth, but do not flood large areas. Use 0000 wire wool where heavy deposits need removing. Work into the surface, and observe the cloth to see what you are removing. Leave for several minutes then buff with a clean cotton cloth. Follow with either wax or glop (see below).
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Revision as of 18:38, 12 April 2020

Let me start off by saying this is not a curatorial approach. This is about taking an old tool that has no specific historical value and restoring it to working order. If you have a tool that you believe has some objective historical value (due to the maker, time/place of manufacture, or feature/process), then please, handle it appropriately.

If, on the other hand, you have a musty molding plane from the early 18th Century. Perhaps a nice cock bead plane from England, then by all means, Let's get cracking. The rest of this assumes a molding plane just to make it simple.

First, let's make sure this is going to be worth our effort.

  • Is it structurally sound? At least well enough for the level of use we're likely to require?
    • Common issues include cracks, checking, missing chunks
  • Does it have wood borer holes? A couple of holes are OK, many holes are not.
  • Is the proper blade present (if appropriate)? Or you can provide a replacement?
  • If it has any controls, adjusters, fences, etc. Are they present and functional? Or at least repairable?

OK, we have a tool that's structurally sound and liable to stay that way for now. Let's start with gross cleaning.

Even though I am not attempting preservation per se, I would rather avoid removing material. So let's not sand stuff unless it's absolutely necessary. I have used a scraper, carefully, to remove paint, glue and other blap. For instance, the traditional plane sole lubricant in England is tallow. This gets everywhere and leaves molding planes especially with a waxy buildup where you would hold the plane. It's ugly, but it comes off with some work.

Cleaner:

To make a quart of the cleaner:

  • 10 oz. Boiled Linseed Oil
  • 10 oz. White vinegar
  • 10 oz. Mineral Spirits or Turpentine
  • 3 oz. Denatured Alcohol
  • 1 oz. Household Ammonia

This isn't that kind of chemistry, you don't need to be super precise here. Mix it up and store in a glass jar, keep it sealed when not in use or the solvents flash off and the BLO hardens.

Prior to use, shake to mix thoroughly.

Apply with a cotton cloth, but do not flood large areas. Use 0000 wire wool where heavy deposits need removing. Work into the surface, and observe the cloth to see what you are removing. Leave for several minutes then buff with a clean cotton cloth. Follow with either wax or glop (see below).

Remove the iron and wedge and set them aside. If the wood finish is:

  • In good shape and clean: wipe down with BLO
  • In good shape, but dirty: scrub it with cleaner, wipe it clean and then wipe it down with BLO
  • In poor shape, slather it with revitalizer, and then wipe it down.