Cleaning: Difference between revisions
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Even though I am not attempting preservation per se, I would rather avoid removing material. So let's not sand stuff unless it's absolutely necessary. I have used a scraper, carefully, to remove paint, glue and other blap. For instance, the traditional plane sole lubricant in England is tallow. This gets everywhere and leaves molding planes especially with a waxy buildup where you would hold the plane. It's ugly, but it comes off with some work. | Even though I am not attempting preservation per se, I would rather avoid removing material. So let's not sand stuff unless it's absolutely necessary. I have used a scraper, carefully, to remove paint, glue and other blap. For instance, the traditional plane sole lubricant in England is tallow. This gets everywhere and leaves molding planes especially with a waxy buildup where you would hold the plane. It's ugly, but it comes off with some work. | ||
{| class=infobox width= | {| class=infobox width=300px style="float:right; margin-left: 10px;" | ||
|style="background:#DDDDDD"|Cleaner: | |style="background:#DDDDDD"|Cleaner: | ||
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|colspan=2 style="font-size:87%;"| | |colspan=2 style="font-size:87%;"| | ||
Prior to use, shake to mix thoroughly. | |||
Apply by working it into the surface with a cotton cloth, for heavier dirt, use a green 3M pad or 0000 steel wool. Leave for several minutes then buff with a clean cotton cloth. Follow with either wax or glop (see below). | |||
To make a quart of the cleaner: | To make a quart of the cleaner: | ||
* 10 oz. Boiled Linseed Oil | * 10 oz. Boiled Linseed Oil | ||
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* 3 oz. Denatured Alcohol | * 3 oz. Denatured Alcohol | ||
* 1 oz. Household Ammonia | * 1 oz. Household Ammonia | ||
This isn't that kind of chemistry. You don't need to be super precise here. Mix it up and store it in a sealed glass jar. | |||
|} | |} | ||
Remove the iron and wedge and set them aside. If the wood finish is: | Remove the iron and wedge and set them aside. If the wood finish is: | ||
* In good shape and clean: wipe down with BLO | * In good shape and clean: wipe down with BLO or wax depending on the tool/intended use. | ||
* In good shape, but dirty: scrub it with cleaner, wipe it clean and then wipe it down with BLO | * In good shape, but dirty: scrub it with cleaner, wipe it clean and then wipe it down with BLO | ||
* In poor shape, slather it with revitalizer, and then wipe it down. | * In poor shape, slather it with revitalizer, and then wipe it down. | ||
Revision as of 18:47, 12 April 2020
Let me start off by saying this is not a curatorial approach. This is about taking an old tool that has no specific historical value and restoring it to working order. If you have a tool that you believe has some objective historical value (due to the maker, time/place of manufacture, or feature/process), then please, handle it appropriately.
If, on the other hand, you have a musty molding plane from the early 18th Century. Perhaps a nice cock bead plane from England, then by all means, Let's get cracking. The rest of this assumes a molding plane just to make it simple.
First, let's make sure this is going to be worth our effort.
- Is it structurally sound? At least well enough for the level of use we're likely to require?
- Common issues include cracks, checking, missing chunks
- Does it have wood borer holes? A couple of holes are OK, many holes are not.
- Is the proper blade present (if appropriate)? Or you can provide a replacement?
- If it has any controls, adjusters, fences, etc. Are they present and functional? Or at least repairable?
OK, we have a tool that's structurally sound and liable to stay that way for now. Let's start with gross cleaning.
Even though I am not attempting preservation per se, I would rather avoid removing material. So let's not sand stuff unless it's absolutely necessary. I have used a scraper, carefully, to remove paint, glue and other blap. For instance, the traditional plane sole lubricant in England is tallow. This gets everywhere and leaves molding planes especially with a waxy buildup where you would hold the plane. It's ugly, but it comes off with some work.
| Cleaner: | |
|
Prior to use, shake to mix thoroughly. Apply by working it into the surface with a cotton cloth, for heavier dirt, use a green 3M pad or 0000 steel wool. Leave for several minutes then buff with a clean cotton cloth. Follow with either wax or glop (see below). To make a quart of the cleaner:
This isn't that kind of chemistry. You don't need to be super precise here. Mix it up and store it in a sealed glass jar. | |
Remove the iron and wedge and set them aside. If the wood finish is:
- In good shape and clean: wipe down with BLO or wax depending on the tool/intended use.
- In good shape, but dirty: scrub it with cleaner, wipe it clean and then wipe it down with BLO
- In poor shape, slather it with revitalizer, and then wipe it down.
